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3o4                             THE GAY GENIUS

morsels around the joints, and am delighted with it. It is like pick-
ing the meat from crabs' claws. I order one every few days and
feel that it has great nutritive value. You have eaten food prepared
by official cooks for the last three years, and I don't think you ever,
touched a bone. Do you suppose you can still discover this kiindi
of flavour, I merely write this down for your amusement, but you
may really try it. I am afraid when barbecued lamb spine becomes*
popular, the dogs will be highly displeased."

Su Tungpo's greatest discovery upon arrival at this district was that
there was no wine monopoly and that every family .brewed its own
wine. From the time he had his first sip of the cinnamon wine he felt;:
as if he had found a true friend in this remote region. In many letters
to his friends he praised this wine with its distinctive bouquet. It was
slightly sweet and did not cause a hang-over. It strengthened the vital
spirits and gave one a healthy complexion. In his exorbitant praise in^
poem about this wine, Su Tungpo said that if one drank enough of
it, one felt so light that he could sail the sky and walk upon water.
He learned the formula for making this wine and had it inscribed on
stone and hidden below the Iron Bridge of Lofu so that only seekers
after God could find it.

Su Tungpo wrote at least five or six rhapsodies on the virtues o
liquor. The most interesting one was the "Postscript to the Life of
Tungkaotse.J> The magistrate of a.district on the east had sent him
some wine. He had been reading the life of Tungkaotse, a great
drinker of the Han dynasty, In his letter of thanks to the magistrate,
Su wrote the "Postscript", explaining his drinking habits, and incident^
ally laying down Two Freedoms which'any bad writer can increase
to four, five, or any number he wishes.

"I can consume only one pint a day. There is no one in the world
with less capacity for wine than myself. But I like to see people
drink. When I see my friends lift the cup and slowly slip the liquor
down their throats, I feel exaltation and exhilaration in my breast,
and my joy is greater than even that of my friends. I never pass a day
without visitors, and never have visitors without wine. Consequendy
there is also no greater lover of drink in the world than myself.

"It has seemed to me that there is no greater human happiness than
two things, freedom from sickness in the body, and freedom from
worries in the mind. I have neither sickness nor worries, but there
are others who suffer from them. How can I make them happy when
I see them? That is the reason why everywhere I go, I keep some
good medkines and give them to those in need. And I especially love
tx> brew wine for my friends. Someone might' ask: Tou keep